Wines for Thanksgiving

A recent survey of my friends and relations revealed that their current go-to wines for Thanksgiving dinner are Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The first choice is solid — possibly brilliant: A high-acid, low-tannin Pinot, with bright cherry and cranberry flavors over rich spices, can do right by almost all the exuberant side dishes a turkey requires.
The second choice, though, is a puzzler, at least if it's a buttery, oaky Chardonnay. Normally I would defend the "I'll drink what I like no matter what’s on the table" approach on principle; you're sure to enjoy at least part of the experience that way. But the trouble with applying it to Thanksgiving is that there's just so much on the table — herby gravy, tangy cranberry sauce, savory dressing.... And sweet potatoes are, well, sweet, even without marshmallows. All of that will kill an oaky Chard, even if it could stand tall with bare turkey. "Chardonnay would be the last wine I would think of for Thanksgiving dinner," confirms Shayn Bjornholm, wine director of Seattle's Canlis restaurant, and the sole Master Sommelier in the state of Washington. (Pinot would be his first choice.) "Super-dry wines can die in the presence of all that fruit, sugar, and salt," he goes on. "White wines with a little residual sugar can be your friend." Reds he considers harder to pair, because most are dry. But white or red, it needs to be fruity.
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